I drive to work behind a school bus. We make our way through a national park at an under-the-limit speed of 35 mph. The roadside buzzes with waking bugs, and petals open to cup the morning sun. At the harbor, I can’t focus on the reflections because the sun and tide move the water and it shimmers. A small cruise ship has Christmas lights around its top deck and a perky guide announces to its passengers that they better grab a jacket for the nature tour. I wear my grandfather’s wool shirt as armor against the chill coming off the ocean.